Ordered Chaos

This weekend provided some much needed relaxation on beautiful beaches and in the company of laid back residents. Our trek began Friday evening as we made way for Nairobi. Being an hour’s drive from Kitengela, we budgeted two hours to ride in the matatu (think primitive van seating 14 but actually seating 24). So, when we got on the matatu at 5pm, we were fairly confident we would arrive with time to spare to catch our 7pm night train. Worry quickly replaced that confidence as we petered through traffic at 6:30. Thirty more minutes at a Nairobi intersection was simply beating a dead horse. It was official, we missed our train. Crap.

Upon arrival at the train station, an officer not-so-kindly informed us that we missed the train and the station is closed. However, a much more helpful gentleman helped us get the world’s most highly trained stunt driver to take us, as the crow flies, from the Mombasa train station to the Athiriva station. Never before had any of us felt a sense of relief that a train had derailed. It was the train in front of ours that derailed, which delayed ours enough to allow us to catch the train. (sigh)

Sunrise on the night train to Mombasa

The train ride was kinda fun. We dined on unremarkable beef, rice & veggies that somehow tasted a bit of alright on the train. The night’s sleep was broken only by the rocking of the train that made it clear why its friend had derailed. At 6am, I anxiously awaited the bell ringing for the first seating of breakfast. And at 6:15, my stomach’s prayers were answered. This time, food was served with an amazing sunrise and some trainside elephants to boot. Hells yeah!

Mombasa ferry

Thirteen hours after boarding our missed train, we pulled into Mombasa feeling extra greasy but ready to hit the beach. The ferry ride over to Mombasa island gave us our first substantial glance at the glorious waters of the Indian Ocean. Our taxi driver took us all the way to Diani Beach, where we would stay at Diani Beachalets in a cottage right on the beach. If I learned one thing on the drive to the beach, it is that “monkey bars” are named for actual monkey bars. About every 100 yards there was a ladder strung across the trees, traversing the street. The first roadside baboon sighting was quite exciting. Their mannerisms have a remarkable resemblance to humans!

'Ello baboon!

Yours truly rockin' the whiteness with Mama Lucy

After taking care of bid-ness with the Irish cottage owner, we immediately hit the beach. I had to constantly remind myself that I was swimming in the *Indian Ocean*! Crazy! Also, as a gift to our house mom Lucy, we paid for her to come with us to Mombasa for the weekend so she could see the ocean for the first time in her life! Upon seeing her awe-struck face at the sight (and feel) of the ocean, I was reminded of the first time I saw it in Siesta Key with Grandma and Grandpa. It was awesome just to see her experience the ocean for the first time.

Unfortunate view from patio.

And while we were soaking up the equatorial rays on the white sand beaches, the local cook was whipping up some tasty goodness in our kitchen. So, for dinner we were treated to red snapper and barracuda with chips, veggies and a salad. Yum-oh.

Our cook...cooking. Duh.

We had planned on hitting some local hotspots for the evening, so while Stevie & Lucy got ready for the evening, Jessica and I hopped a matatu to the local supermarket for some essentials. Fast forward to post-shopping. We were standing outside in the dark street, waiting unsuccessfully for a return matatu when a motorcycle taxi pulled up. Jess and I looked at each other, and as the devil on her shoulder I suggested that we take it. And take it we did! However, about 15 seconds after pulling onto the road, we were pulled over by the police for failure to signal (and for cutting off the cops). About 4 officers jumped out, big-ass guns drawn and Jess puts her hands up while I just sat and held the groceries. Luckily, they let him off without arresting him and without demanding a payment, which is a common practice of corruption in Kenya.

Chalking it up to weekend excitement, we continued on our evening ride and successfully made it back to the cottage. The evening turned out to be a bit of a let down, as the restaurant suggested was merely a tourist trap stuffed full of under-dressed chicks and over-drunk dudes. No thanks. On a tip that a walk back to our cottage would take only 15 minutes, we marched off into the darkness, with nothing but the sound of the ocean and the light of a cell phone to guide us. Sixty minutes later, we got home. “Kenya time” they call it.

That’s where our night ended, and the next morning we made some chai to enjoy during the sunrise. And it was exquisite! The sunrise, that is. The chai was, too, but the sunrise trumps all. And unfortunately, our time on the beach came to a close as we made way to old town Mombasa to check out the city. Bad idea. It was hot, sweaty, and everything was closed because it was a Sunday. Thankfully, we rode the high of our time on the beach long enough to get us back on the train.

Sunrise over the Indian Ocean. (drool)

Overall it was an excellent weekend, with a bit of relaxing and some eye candy delivered by white sand and the marvelous Indian Ocean. I would love to have spent more time there, but our unfinished business at the school called us home like the street lights of childhood. Goodbye Mombasa, I will see you again.